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When assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the owners totally shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small place achieving such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.